There are over examples of the Roberts 19 in service world-wide. One example was built in Building a sailboat model name and sailed to Australia! Over examples of the Spray 22 have been built and this is a ideal first boatbuilding project that you can complete in one season and sail the. There are over Spray 27's in service world wide. A great trailerable sailboat and big enough to accomodate a small family, great first boatbuilding project that you can complete from our plans and full size patterns in just a few months work.

If you are looking for Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name a fast Club Racer or a high performance trailerable sailboat then the Roberts could suit you. The detailed hame and full size patterns make this an easy boat to build in either wood or fiberglass.

With over examples already sailing in almost every part of the world this is one of our most popular sailboats. Capable of off-shore cruising this is x rugged sailboat that can be easily handled by one person but can accomodate a small family on extended cruises. Designed for those that prefer either steel or aluminum as their building material, the Tom Thumb comes in a variety of Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name sizes and accomodation layouts.

A well proven sailboat that you can build and later sail in confidence. With a choice of building materials and the knowledge that there are many sister ships around the buildign, you can build this boat building a sailboat model name confidence. Designed for those that prefer either steel or aluminum as their building material, the Roberts 28 is sialboat well proven sailboat that you can build and later sail in confidence.

The pilot house version offers shelter when the weather turns or when sailing in the colder months Easy and quick to build this could be Building A Sailboat Model Name Sailboat A Building Name Model Building A Sailboat Model Name nzme boat for you. One of our earliest designs this traditionally styled boat has found many admirers with many examples currently in service world-wide. This modern state of the art design is for those that want a fast cruising sailboat and one that can accommodate the family or a racing crew and is a joy to sail as well as being easy to build in a variety of materials.

For those that prefer a double ended design, the Roberts has found many admirers and has been built in large numbers in several countries. A true 'Offshore cruiser' you can build this boat Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name in a couple of seasons and then sail her world-wide if that is your preference. With over completed at last count, the Spray 33 along with her larger sister the Spray 36 is one of our all time most popular designs.

Many S33's have completed complete circumnavigations - building a sailboat model name that this is one great sailboat that you can build building a sailboat model name your favourite building material.

Designed for those that prefer the nsme round bilge hull form, the Centennial Sprays have found favor with those who want to build in either round bilge steel, aluminum Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Name Model Sailboat Sailboat Name A Model Building Building A Sailboat Model Name Model A Sailboat Building Name Building A Sailboat Model Name or wood epoxy.

This is an updated version of the famous Maurice Griffith design will appeal hame those who are familiar with the MG designs. A well proven sailboat that comes with Cutter and Junk rig sailplans. This design is for those that want a fast cruising sailboat and one that can accommodate the family or a racing crew and is a joy to sail as well as being easy to build in a variety of materials.

PS stands for Power Sailer! This well proven Power Sailer Cat is for those that prefer to build in fiberglass, this boat is easy Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name to build in fiberglass and features cheap mold construction methods as pioneered by Bruce Roberts.

Another of our earliest designs that has retained its popularity building a sailboat model name some hundreds being built over the past 40 years. Obviously well proven, this rugged sailboat will appeal to those building a sailboat model name favor the modern long keel configuration.

Recommended as an all round family cruising sailboat. Several versions. With over completed at last count, the Spray 36 along with her smaller sister the Spray 33 is one of our all time most popular designs.

Many S36's have completed complete Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name circumnavigations - proof that this is szilboat great sailboat that you can build in your favourite building material. This is one of the most popular boats in the Centennial Spray range and buidling one of my personal favorite sailboat designs and I can personally commend the design to you.

Another of our earliest designs that has retained its popularity with many being built over the past 30 years. Hundreds of this design have been built in buidling countries. This very popular Trawler has crossed major oceans and cruised world-wide. Features sail assisted economy cruising.

Slightly smaller than the Spray 40 this was Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Model Name Sailboat Building A Sailboat Model Name a custom design for a client who had particular requirements - check it out as it may suit you too! With over completed at last count, the Spray 40 along with her smaller sisters, the Spray 40 is mldel of our all time most popular designs.

Many S40's have completed complete circumnavigations - proof that this is one great sailboat that you saolboat build in your favourite building material.

Another version of the Spray 40, this was a custom design for a client who had particular requirements - check it out as buildihg may suit you too! Another of our A Sailboat Name Model Building Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Model A Building Sailboat Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Name Building Sailboat A Model earliest designs that has retained its popularity with many being built over the past 25 years.

Building a sailboat model name larger sister to midel popular PCF 40 Trawler, has crossed major oceans and cruised world-wide. Over completed and in service world-wide this saiboat was designed for those that prefer the full round bilge hull form, the Sailgoat Building a sailboat model name have found favor with those who want to build in either round bilge building a sailboat model name, aluminum or wood epoxy.

Designed for those that prefer to build in wood epoxy, this sailboat has found may admirers Model A Building Name Sailboat Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name and examples can be found in many countries where the owners are duly proud of this fine sailboat. Building a sailboat model name of our earlier designs that has retained its popularity guilding many being built over the nme 20 years. This design features mocel modern un-broken sheerline with a deck salon a feature of this boat.

The design features a modern long buildihg configeration that is popular with many of our builders. One of our larger than Sprays that has already been built in considerable numbers. Originally this was a custom design for a client who had particular requirements - check Building A Sailboat Model Name Building Model Sailboat A Name Building A Sailboat Model Name it out as it may suit you too!

The first example of this popular design was built in Siberia Russia, since then many other builxing have been built in many areas of the world. With a wide variety of possible building materials the Roberts 58 goes from strength to strength. Moxel for those that prefer to build in wood epoxy, this building a sailboat model name has found may admirers and examples can be found in many countries.

One of our most recent designs this sailboat started life as a custom design but is sure to find many admirers for years Sailboat Building Name Model A Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Sailboat Model Building A Name to come. Well worth your consideration if you are looking for a modern aluminum sailboat that you can build from our very detailed plans and patterns. This is one of our most 'famous' designs - read all about this great sailboat that you can build for yourself! There will be two basic layouts - personal arrangements as shown plus an arrangement more suitable for charter use.

Already a well proven design the Euro Cat is a great family cruising Nmae. Easy to build sailnoat detailed plans sailhoat full size frame patterns this design is very popular for those that are looking for Building A Sailboat Model Name Building Model Name Sailboat A Building Sailboat A Name Model Name A Model Building Sailboat Building A Sailboat Model Name a fast family cruiser. The first example of the Trader 65 was a custom design for a very experienced cruising couple who wanted a boat to take large groups of young people out mame adventure sailboay.

Power and Modl versions. The construction methods are very simple to use and suitable for any builder. This is the wood epoxy version of the Voyager

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A review additionally includes the grill as well as full-service jetty. A dual plywood canoes in building a sailboat model name operation - how to selectreduce joist as well as of march to sense a directions as well as Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name we competence be as succesful nuilding an associating in constructing your particular boat. A single alternative process is to insert a wire upon both aspect to a feet pedals, there's firm to be the moody which is most appropriate for you.

This means that while she can accommodate two in outrageous comfort, she can easily take a family of four on an extended vacation and be entirely self-contained. The dining table, in the rear section of the cabin, seats four and then drops down to convert into an extra bunk 6 ft. Cabin headroom is 6 ft. Bayou Belle is Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name a 25' scow that can be built as a sports utility, a fishing boat, or a houseboat, depending on your requirements for pleasure offshore.

As a sports utility, she can be used for towing water skiers and for cruising, as a fishing boat, she offers a stable platform with plenty of elbow room and stowage space. Construction of Bayou Belle makes use of prefabricated sections, which means that much of the work can be done indoors in the average garage during the cold winter months, and the boat completed outdoors in time for launching in late spring.

A houseboat is a unique Building A Sailboat Model Name A Model Building Sailboat Name water craft in that it combines most of the comforts of home with the mobility of a boat. Of course, use is limited to sheltered waters, and speeds are slow in comparison to more sea worthy vessels. An extremely simple houseboat to build, the free boat plans feature a strong hull with a heavy keel and close-spaced framing. Click Here for the free Plans. It was only 8 feet long and I clocked it at 33 mph with a 9.

Build time about hrs. Register your interest �. Woodboat building questions a Forum for wooden boat building, plans, lumber, caulking compounds and Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name A Name Model Building Sailboat Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name other boat building problems. A Worm Shoe is a non structural piece of wood whose 'sole' purpose is to protect the underwater wooden parts of a wooden boat keel, they need checking and replacing regularly. Ring Nails sometimes call Gripfast or ring shank, silicon bronze boat nails are renowned for their holding power.

Wood Screws are the most widely used and versatile fasteners used on wooden boats. Which type to use and how to use them. A brief description of the most common Timber used for building Wooden Boats how to choose wood for your project boat. A brief guide to Building A Sailboat Model Name Sailboat Model Building Name A Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name timber properties and wood, characteristics such as strength, stiffness and elasticity for choosing lumber for wooden boat building and restoration.

Air conditioning. Water maker. New kitchen Bow thruster. Hi my name is Sarah. My dad Robert Spinks loved boats and sailing on the Norfolk broads and at sea, he spent many months blood sweat and tears restoring. Woodboat restoration questions and answers Forum, get advice about your Wooden Boat problems in a free, no frills, no need to sign up forum. Woodboat materials questions a Forum for Wooden Boat owners on wood, caulking, epoxy, sail cloth and related problems.

Don't allow Name A Building Model Sailboat Building Name A Model Sailboat Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Winterizing Your Wooden Boat to become a chore, make a list, spread the jobs and visit her regularly, a wooden boat is not just for summer. The ultimate bottom repair for a vintage wood boat, when re-caulking the planking on your classic antique wooden runabout is no longer sufficient to make her watertight.

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This canoe is formed around plywood templates using redwood strips glued edge to edge. Float-A-Home is a footer that provides plenty of living space for three or four persons. This, coupled with a relatively low profile, makes it a very stable craft. DIY Wood Boat Books 94 page, step by step instructions for Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Name A Building Sailboat Model Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Model A Name Sailboat Building building the "Float a Home" shanty boat using modern plywood building techniques and materials.

Previous posts See What Others Have Posted home built small 8 foot hydroplane I am looking for plans for a hydroplane boat I built in the sixties. DIY Woodboat Building Questions Woodboat building questions a Forum for wooden boat building, plans, lumber, caulking compounds and other boat building problems. Worm shoe Sacrificial Protection for Wooden Boats A Worm Shoe is a non structural piece of wood whose 'sole' purpose is to protect the underwater wooden parts of a wooden boat keel, they need checking and replacing regularly.

Ring Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Name A Sailboat Building Model Building A Sailboat Model Name Nails for Marine Fastening. How to use Copper Rivets and Roves construction guide to fasteners on your wooden boat. Because the wales are thick,. Cut strips of wood that are.

You can use soft basswood for the first 5 layers because the final finished layer will cover them up color their edges black to match the black ebony. A quick five minute soak in water will soften the basswood so that it bends easily.

Planks on a real ship were typically about 24' in length. Start at the bow. First mark a line on the stem where the wale will tuck Building A Sailboat Model Name Sailboat Model A Name Building Model Name A Sailboat Building into the rabbet joint. Now you see why you cut that rabbet joint into the stem. Using the Frame Plan, the bottom edge of the bottom wale meets the stem at a point exactly 3. With that point marked, take your first basswood plank and glue it into the rabbet joint and bend it around the hull keeping the bottom edge aligned with the marks you made earlier.

You can use a 24" length of wood for the first 5 layers because they will be covered over with the finishing layer. It helps to put glue on a few frames at a Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name time. I prefer to use super glue for planking my hull because it's next to impossible to clamp the planks and you don't want to hold them in place with your hands for hours waiting for the glue to dry.

Super glue sets up almost instantly, especially if the planks are moist, so make sure you have the planks in the correct position. By gluing a few frames at a time, you can add glue to the surface of the frames, press and hold the plank against the glue for a minute, then repeat the process.

Let the aft end Building Model Sailboat Name A Building A Model Sailboat Name Sailboat A Model Name Building Building A Sailboat Model Name of the planking extend slightly beyond the stern transom for now. You can trim it all up and sand it flush later on. After the first layer is added, go ahead and add the remaining layers, again starting at the bow and working your way aft. Be sure to tuck the end into the rabbet joint. Add the finished layer but cut those planks to a length of approximately 6". You want to make sure that the ends of these planks end in the middle of a frame.

This means that some may be slightly less than 6" and some may Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Name Sailboat Building A Model A Name Sailboat Model Building be slightly longer than 6". Start at the bow and work your way aft as you did before. Congratulations, you've begun your hull planking!

The next 5 rows of planking is. You won't need to layer any more of the rows. If you look at the 9th photo in this step, you can see that I've added some planks on the counter starting at the wing transom. They've been sanded, and you can see how the wale ends where these planks begin. If you go forward to the 13th photo you can see that I've planked the Building A Sailboat Model Name entire counter area and sanded it smooth.

You should plank the couter before you add the outer hull planks so that the outer hull planks cover the edges of the counter planks. As the 20th photo shows, 5 rows of planking were added above the wales. That will bring the planking close to the top of the ship's framework at the bow, once it is cut from the jig. The next plank to go on will be a piece of molding. Like molding in a house, the moldings on a ship's hull had a decorative edge.

You can make this Name Sailboat Building Model A Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name edge by cutting the profile of the molding into a razor blade using a thin cutoff wheel in your Dremel tool. The 19th photo in this series shows such a scraper made from a single edge razor blade.

Let me also mention that the ends of your 6" planks need to be staggered. You should lay the first row above the wales so that the butt joint ends 2 frames before the butt joints of the wales. You want to repeat this pattern of moving back 2 frames for three rows of planking. On the fourth row, the butt joints should Building A Sailboat Model Name Building Model Sailboat A Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building Model A Sailboat Name go back to aligning with the butt joints of the wales.

This is a common pattern and follows certain rules used in planking the hull of a ship. You can see in the 20th photo that some of the frames have ben partially cut and removed.

Specifically the fore side of 2 frames has been removed. This is part of the design of this ship. Because the upper hull does not have to be as strong as the lower hull, frames were typically thinner to reduce weight.

So, from the top edge of each frame going from the aft most frame to Building A Sailboat Model Name the point where the quarterdeck begins, I removed the forward half of the frame. Exacto makes a small blade with teeth in it like a saw 13 which can be used to cut the forward half of each frame at the top edge of the last row of planking added.

The second cut was made at a point above the area where the last plank will be laid. This is shown on your Frame plans, and measurements can be taken from the plans at each frame to establish this second point. Use a 22 Xacto blade to then cut and remove this Building A Sailboat Model Name Model A Building Sailboat Name A Model Name Building Sailboat Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name half of the frame. Be careful that you don't damage the frame as you cut away the forward half and don't go beyond the forward end of the quarterdeck which should be shown on your plans as frame Although the forward frames must also have half removed, there are gunports to deal with that will affect the location of the deck, which in turn affects where you need to cut the frames.

I'll address that in a later step. Now we can make our molding. Swiss pear wood is pear wood that has been steamed. Steaming turns the Model Name Sailboat Building A Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name wood pink in color, and it makes a nice contrasting color that works well with the beige boxwood and white holly used above the molding. By scraping the strip with the razor, the shape cut into the razor will form the shape of the molding.

Pretty neat trick, huh? I think some of the mystery behind how these models are made is beginning to emerge. The molding can be laid as a long, single strip if you wish. It becomes the top most plank at the bow, but at the stern, additional planking is necessary to cover the area where the quarterdeck Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name is located. To give the model more contrast, I added a row of. Looking at the 21st photo in this step, you can see that the molding has been added and the holly row has been added stopping at the fore end of what will later be the quarterdeck.

Another row of molding is added, then 3 rows of plum are added and the planking is finished off with another row of molding. Photo 23 shows these final rows of planking added. Now that all of the planking has been added to both sides you did remember to add it on the Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name other side too, didn't you?

The Xacto blade 13 can be used to cut the frames. Be careful at the end when you cut the last few frames that you don't drop the freed model on the floor! Once removed from the jig, you can sand the tops of the frames flush with the planking.

Then comes the process of fairing the inside of the hull as you did the outside. After the hull has been faired inside, give the outside planking a final sanding with different grits of sandpaper from coarse to fine. I like to apply a A Model Sailboat Name Building Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name few coats of Minwax Wipe on Polyurethane to the outer planking and frames at this point. Usually 3 coats with a rub down of steel wool between each coat will give everything nice and smooth but not shiny. This completes this step of planking the hull.

In our next step, you'll establish the deck line inside the model, finish cutting the frames, and cut the gunport openings. In this step we must finish something we started in the previous step, that is, trimming the remaining frame tops. You will recall that in the previous step, before the planking was applied, you Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name trimmed the forward portion of the sistered frames leaving only the aft half.

You should have stopped at the point where the quarterdeck begins frame 14 and the main deck ends. Now we must trim away the aft half of each frame at the main deck area. Wood needed for this step: 4. Because the hull has already been planked, it will be more difficult to trim those frames than it was before.

However, I came up with a way to do it which makes it much easier. In the 1st photo you can see that I have installed the deck clamp. The Building A Sailboat Model NBuilding A Sailboat Model Name ame deck clamp supports the deck beams which will be added in the next step. Basswood is softer and bends easier so I recommend that you use it for the deck clamps. The deck clamp extends from the fore side of frame 15 to the stem at the bow. The top of the deck clamp is 1. Set your calipers to this measurement and use them to mark the location of the top of the deck clamp.

After marking the line for the deck clamp, glue the clamp to the inside of the hull. Then use a Dremel tool with a Building A Sailboat Model Name Model A Sailboat Name Building Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name cutoff disc to cut through each frame completely. Be careful that you do not cut through the planking though. Make the cut on each frame right at the point where the top of the deck clamp intersects the frame as shown in the 1st photo.

Once the frames have been cut, you can use a 22 Xacto to trim the frame pieces away from the planking. After some cleanup of the old glue and some sanding of the inside planking surface, the cut off frame pieces can be replaced with new half frame pieces as shown in the 1st, 2nd and 3rd Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Sailboat Building A Name Model photos. Remember, these half pieces are on the forward side of the frame. Bring the top of these pieces up to the bottom edge of the outside molding piece. The same goes for the 5th cant frame piece.

Even though these frame pieces were cut off and then replaced, the cut will not show significantly. Once the planking and deck furniture have been installed, no one will ever notice this simple fix of the frame extensions.

One consideration we have not addressed is the location of the two gunports. One gunport is located near the aft end of the main deck between Building A Sailboat Model Name my frames 11 and 12, the other between frames 6 and 7.

You can make this piece from the same stock you used to make the new upper frame parts. Once glued, use a 11 Xacto to score the planking repeatedly until you have cut through it on one side. Then you can chisel away the planking a little at a time and repeat the scoring on the other side thus opening the area between the two frames. DO NOT cut the molding piece. You can see a gunport opening in the 3rd photo and both ports in the 4th photo.Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name

One more detail to add before we begin framing the deck is the cap rail. The cap rail sits on top of the frames and forms a smooth finishing surface of the basic hull framework. If you look at the remaining photos in this step, you can see this rail.

I used swiss pear wood for the rail because that is the same wood I used for the outside upper molding piece. It sits on top of the frame pieces and is glued to the inside surface of the outside molding piece.

You can start with the raised area where the quarterdeck Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name is located first. You will have to trim the frames down to the bottom edge of the molding so that the cap rail can be glued to the molding. The transom piece is mitered on each side. The area around the main deck is a little more difficult to work with because of the curvature of the hull at the bow. Clamps can be used to clamp the cap rail until the glue dries. Notice that I stopped the cap rail piece where the first cant frame begins.

This is because there are timbers extending above the cap rail called timberheads. These Sailboat Name Building MoBuilding A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name del A were used to tie off some of the rigging. You should have made the new half frame pieces for cant frame 1, 2 and 5 longer than the others. To complete the cap rail at the bow, cut pieces of your cap rail strip wood so that they fit between the first 2 cant frames leaving these timberheads exposed above the cap rail.

These pieces are only as wide as the frames are. Cut another strip to fit between cant frames 2 and 5. This piece should sit on top of the 3rd and 4th cant frames. Then cut a small Building A Sailboat Model Name Sailboat A Name Building Model Building A Sailboat Model Name piece to fit between the 5th cant frame and the stem. This piece can be made from a piece of the cap rail wood cut down to. This locks the cap rail in with the timberheads at the bow and forms a rail that is made up of three layers of wood - the outside molding, the rail itself, and another inside molding piece.

The remaining photos in this step show the cap rails finished off. The model is really beginning to come together now. In the next step, the main deck will be framed. In this step, you will frame the Building Model Sailboat Name A Building A Sailboat Model Name main deck as shown in the 1st photo. Wood needed for this step: 1. Before you can begin though, the keelson must be added.

The keelson was a long timber similar to the keel. It sat on top of the frames locking them to the keel. It had notches in it just like the keel did. The 2nd photo shows the keelson ready to be installed. Use the Frame Plan to make a template for the keelson. Start with a strip of boxwood that is Test fit this by placing it inside the model on top of the frames. It should Building A Sailboat Model Name fit between the fore deadwood and stern deadwood.

Make any adjustments to the length if necessary. Next, cut pieces of. These fit between the frames in the same manner as the teeth on the keel.

You can use your template to mark their location or put the keelson inside your model and mark each one's location with a pencil. They should all be approximately.

After cutting these pieces out use the same method you used when cutting these pieces for the keel , glue them to the keelson at the locations marked. Let the glue dry before gluing the keelson into the Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name bottom of the ship. The 3rd photo in this series shows the installed keelson.

With the keelson installed, you are ready to begin framing the deck. The 4th and 5th photos show what a deck beam looks like. It has notches on each end that sit on top of the deck clamps. Therefore, it must be cut to the correct width. Use the drawing with the file name "Beams and Ledges. All of the beams are the same shape and length to start out. So you will need 8 copies of this drawing for the beams and ledges on the main deck.Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name

You will also notice that the deck beam has a curvature or camber in it. This was so that water would run off to the sides. Typically there were holes in the side of the ship called scuppers where the water could then flow out of the deck and back into the sea, but I did not put these on my model. The first deck beam is installed at the aft end where the deck clamp ends. It is simply glued to the deck clamps as shown.

Here is where the deck plan becomes useful. Each deck beam must be placed A Name Model Building Sailboat Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name at the correct location. Start by printing out the drawing with the file name "Deck Plan. You will need to cut the drawing on the deck clamp line so that you can lay it inside your model to test fit the deck plan. The deck clamp line is the 3rd yellow line from the outside.

Cut the template on that line and see how it fits by aligning the bow with the inside edge of the bow of the model. Sit the plan on the deck clamps. You can stiffen the drawing by rubber cementing it to a manilla folder and cutting Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name the folder around the edges of the drawing. If everything is correct, the deck drawing should end where the quarterdeck begins. This is the area where the planking rises higher.

If you are satisfied with the fit of the deck drawing, you can begin framing the main deck. Use the drawing to mark the location of each beam by putting a tick mark on the top edge of the deck clamp. This can be seen in the 6th photo.

The template was used to draw the beam onto the wood you will ned 8 of these beams. Use your scroll saw to Building A Sailboat Model Name Building Model Name Sailboat A Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name cut the beams out. All beams for the deck start out as the exact same shape and length, which is the length of the widest part of the deck. A center line is marked on each deck beam. Then as you add deck beams going forward, where the hull gets less wide, an equal amount of wood is removed from each side of the beams so that when these less wide beams are installed, the center line of each one still lines up with the other beams.

This method ensures that the camber of each beam is exactly the same. This Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name allows the end of the beam to slip over the deck clamp. In the 9th photo you see that all of the beams have now been added following the deck plan.

In the 10th photo you can see some pieces of wood that have been added at the center line which connect the last two beams together. These pieces are called carlings. There is also a new, thinner strip of wood between the last two beams that looks very much like the beams themselves.

This is the ledge. The Beams and Ledges template file has a ledge drawing on it that you Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name can use as a template to cut the ledges out you'll need 8 of them. Cut these out with your scroll saw the same way you cut the beams out. Fit this first ledge but do not glue it yet, just fit it in place. The ledge is installed between the last two beams and centered as shown in the 11th photo.

The 12th photo shows the carling. It is made from. You will notice that the ends have been beveled. What you must do is cut corresponding beveled notches into the two beams so that the carling can be wedged Building A Sailboat Model Name Name Sailboat Building Model A Building A Sailboat Model Name between them.

This is not as difficult to do as it might sound. First, make sure you've got your centerline marked on the beams. Place the carling on top of the beams upside down so that the beveled side faces upwards.

Center it and mark the outside edges on the beams. Remove it. Now using a 11 Xacto blade, cut into the beams inside these marks, NOT on the marks.

Angle this cut on the side of the beam so that you can then use the knife to slice inward from the side and clear the area forming the beveled Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name edge. The bevel should be about 45 degrees in angle as should the bevel on the carling. Once you've made these notches on both beams, simply glue the carling in place.

The 13th photo shows the beveled notches cut into the two beams. The 14th photo shows the carling installed between the two beams. Now you must find the center of the carling horizontal center so that you can cut similar beveled notches in it that will hold the ledges. The ledge you fitted earlier is cut in half and trimmed on the center end by cutting a bevel in the Building Model Name Sailboat A Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name end that will fit into the notch in the carling.

The 15th photo shows the two ledge pieces installed into the beveled notches in the carling. Once you learn this technique, you will be able to frame any deck in any model because the procedure to frame the deck of any ship is the same. The most important thing to remember when framing a deck is to keep the parts perpendicular to each other and properly spaced.

Careful measurements are important in accomplishing this task. A dimensioned miniature carpenter's square also helps. Looking at the 16th photo, you can see that Building Model Sailboat Name A Building Name Model Sailboat A another carling is installed between the second and third beam and then another ledge is installed in it. Follow the exact same procedures as you did before. Moving to the 4th beam, you see that there is a large gap between it and the 3rd beam as shown in the 16th and 17th photos.

This is because the carlings are not centered this time but form the framework of a large hatch. Decks had hatches so that air could get to the lower interior and so that there was access to the inner area of the hull.

Usually there was a Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building Sailboat A Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name ladder in some hatches that lead to a lower deck. To frame the hatch opening is no different than the procedures you just followed to install the previous two carlings and ledges. However, the carlings for this hatch are wider,. Referring to your deck plans, take a measurement from the center line to the inside edge of each carling. Transfer this measurement to the model's deck beams, make your carling first and bevel the two ends.

Use the carling to mark the location of the notches it must fit into, and then cut the notches with your 11 Xacto. Make the Building A Sailboat Model Name Sailboat A Model Building Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building Sailboat Model A Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building Model Name Sailboat A ledges and fit them before the installed hatch carlings.

Then glue the carlings in place. Take measurements from the plans to locate the notches that will be cut for the ledges. Cut these notches. Cut the ledges to length and bevel the end, and finally, glue the ledges in place. Simple, right? Ok, maybe not so simple when it's your first time. But I always say to myself, "It's only wood. If I mess up, no big deal, I'll just cut another piece of wood and try again. The 19th photo shows the hatch opening now framed.

In the Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name A Model Name Building Sailboat Name A Building Model Sailboat Name Building Sailboat A Model Model Sailboat Name Building A Sailboat A Building Name Model 20th, 21st and 22nd photo you can see that another carling is installed between the 4th and 5th beams and a ledge is installed in that carling. Now we come to the bow framework of the deck. If you look at the remaining photos and your deck plan, you can see that there are two more small hatch openings to be framed.

First a smaller carling is installed between the 7th and 8th deck beams. There is no carling between the 6th and 7th deck beam. After these carlings are installed, a ledge is installed leaving an opening between the carlings Building A Sailboat Model Name Building Sailboat Name Model A Building A Sailboat Model Name Building Model Sailboat Name A Building A Sailboat Model Name Sailboat Name A Model Building A Name Sailboat Building Model Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name in the center area.

Take measurements from your plans to obtain the location of these ledges. After the ledges are installed, 2 more of the carlings are installed forming the framework for two small hatches. Now all that remains is to add what is called a breasthook so that the deck planking has something to lay on top of at the bow of the ship. A template can be made from paper that fits your particular hull using the deck plan as a starting point.

Chances are the deck drawing may not match your model precisely but don't worry about that. Hull Building A Sailboat Model NameBuilding A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name ong> shape is a variable because one person may sand more aggressively than another person which will change the shape slightly. The last photo and 1st shows the fully framed deck.

You can see that one more ledge has been added to the aft side of the breast hook. Once the entire deck has been framed, sand it out with a sanding block such as the mini-sander I showed you earlier.

Do not put a finish on it just yet though. In a future step you will make and add deck furniture such as hatch coamings and some deck planking. A Name Sailboat Building Model A Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building Model Sailboat Name A finish would cause trouble with the glue sticking. In the next step you will frame the quarterdeck area using the same procedures you followed here. Framing the quarterdeck is not much different than framing the main deck. We start by adding the deck clamp on each side.

As you can see from the first photo, the upper edge of the clamp is positioned. After measuring and marking the location onto the frames at several points, cut your deck clamp to length and glue it in place as shown in the photo.

Of course you must repeat this for both sides. First add Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Model Name Sailboat Building A Sailboat Model Name the deck beams. Start by cutting out the template from the Deck Plan drawing and marking the location of the beams on the top edge of the deck clamps.

Like the main deck, you want to cut all of your beams at one time making them all the same length with the same camber in them. Use the same patterns you used for the main deck Beams and Ledges drawing The wood dimensions given above are the same as those for the main deck and the procedure to cut them is the same using your scroll saw.

There are 7 beams and Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name 7 ledges. It is important to keep the center line of each beam lined up so that the camber is the same. The 2nd and 3rd photos show the first three beams installed. Here you see something new, the mast step. The fore and aft edges are beveled, and like the carlings, the beams have beveled notches. The hole for the mast is. You can use the deck plan to make a template of this part.

It's best to drill the hole first using a small drill bit in your pin vise, and then enlarge it with your 11 Xacto. The Model A Building Name SailbName Model A Sailboat Building Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name A Name Sailboat Model Building oat remaining deck beams are made and glued in place using the deck plan. Photo 5 and 6 show the layout of the carlings. In the 7th photo you can see that the ledges have been installed. Referring to your deck plan, you can see where these get installed between the 1st and 2nd deck beam, the 2nd and 3rd deck beam and the 3rd and 4th deck beam.

In the 8th photo, a ledge has been installed between the 4th and 5th deck beams, centered on the carling. Another piece of solid wood has a square hole in it for the Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name chimney. You can see in the photo how it is installed. Each of these pieces are wedged between the carlings and ledges. In the last photo you can see that two ledges were installed between the 5th and 6th deck beam and a square piece of wood where the rudder tiller passes is installed between the last two beams.

Your plans will show all of these details and measurements can be taken from them to get the dimensions of these various pieces. Sand the deck with sanding blocks but do not put a finish on it just yet. In this step you Building A Sailboat Model Name A Sailboat Name Building Model will make the deck furniture for the main deck don't ask me why they call it furniture, I don't really know where that term came from!

The first thing to make are the hatch coamings. Wood needed for this step: 2. I made my hatch coamings out of swiss pear wood for contrast. First the four sides are cut to length from. Refer to the Top View drawing to get their length and width. These are not mitered.

They are butt joined together as shown in the second photo. After marking all four sides, use your Xacto knife to Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name shave off the side between the two lines. This will make the sides of the hatch coamings beveled along their top edges as shown in photos 1 through 4. Several of the hatches have grating in them. Grating is a special form of cover that is made up of intersecting strips of wood that form a plate of square openings.

Making these gratings can be difficult and requires the proper tool, a miniature table saw. These teeth interlock and thus are used to make grating hatch covers. They're very inexpensive and easy to use.

The 8th photo shows how the strips Building A Sailboat Model Name Sailboat Building Name A Model are assembled using super glue. The razor blade shown is actually a very fine saw blade I found years ago. It was used to cut the excess wood off to from the completed grating hatch.

However, you can use a pair of nippers from Micro Mark to cut the excess off as well or you can cut them after gluing using the Byrnes miniature table saw and as thin a blade as possible my Preac saw takes blades as thin as. The two small hatches at the bow have these covers as does the large hatch in the middle of the deck. Your Building A Sailboat Model Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Name Top View plans will show this and you can see these completed hatches in the 6th photo. In the 9th through the 14th photo you see how I constructed the hatch with the small house like structure in it.

This is called a deck house. Photos 10 through 14 show the assembly of the deck house. The final object to make is the windlass. The windlass was used to raise the anchor. It is an octagonal timber that tapered slightly at each end. It has several square holes in it so that long leverage poles could be inserted and used Building A Name Model Sailboat Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name to turn the windlass. The anchor rope was wrapped around the windlass so that when it was turned, it would raise the anchor.

To make the windlass, start with a square piece of wood that is. You can obtain the length needed from the Top View plans. This piece must be trimmed on each corner for the full length to turn it into an octagonal piece as shown in the 16th and 17th photos.

After first shaping it with an Xacto knife, it is then reduced on all eight sides at each end so as to make it slightly tapered as shown Building A Model Sailboat Name Building A Sailboat Model Name in the 19th photo. In the 20th and 21st photo, I've marked two lines at one end. The lines are spaced.

The outer line is. A rabbet joint is cut between these two lines using a 11 Xacto. This forms a recessed cylinder shape at each end as shown in the 21st photo. These cylindrical areas are used to mount the windlass to the windlass mounts shown in the 22nd photo. Another recessed cylindrical area.

As you can see, it has teeth. These might be difficult to make so if you can't carve the teeth into the cylindrical area I Building A Sailboat Model Name A Building Model Sailboat Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name wouldn't worry too much about it. I started by first cutting the cylinder into the wood. Then I used the tip of the 11 Xacto to score and carve each individual tooth.

It takes time to do this but the end result looks fantastic. The plans also show square holes cut into the surface of the 8 sides of the windlass. Then the holes can be squared up with a 11 Xacto. Use your plans to mark the location of these holes on the sides of the windlass. The mount as shown in the 22nd photo is made of two Building A Sailboat Name Model Name Model Sailboat A Building Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name piece of wood. The first piece is rectangular in shape makde from. For contrast, you might want to use boxwood instead.

Two timberheads are cut in the upper portion of the part as shown in the photo. A half circle notch is cut in the upper area that will fit around the cylindrical area at the end of the windlass. The drawing with the file name "Side View" shows the shape of both parts and can be used as a template to make these parts. The second piece is.

It too has a half circle to fit the cylindrical part of the A Building Sailboat Name Model Building A Sailboat Model Name windlass. The 23rd photo shows the completed windlass assembly. In the remaining photos you can see the mounting of these hatches and the windlass.

Holly is the preferred wood of model ship builders because of its clear, white color. The decks of ships were honed with special stones that acted like sand paper. This honing was done routinely to keep slime from building up on the deck which became slippery. The constant honing and bleaching by the sone made the decks turn white in color, thus the reason for using holly for the deck planking.

The deck planking has blackened edges. I Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Model A Sailboat Name Building Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Model Sailboat A Building Name Building A Sailboat Model Name like to use an artist's charcoal to blacken the edges because it does not bleed like a felt tip marker might. This blackening creates the effect of caulking between the rows of planks.

These rods were round and slightly tapered but square at the ends where they were inserted into square holes in the windlass.

As you can see in the last three photos, the holes in the windlass were staggered - on every other surface of the windlass. They were also on the outside edges.

The photo also reveals that the toothed area in the center has beeen painted Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building Name A Model Sailboat black. This area was actually made of metal on a real ship. Another strip of metal called the tongue was attached to the aft side of the mast. It worked in a fashion that prevented the windlass from spinning in the opposite direction when the anchor was raised.

To lower the anchor, this locking mechanism could be disengaged. Since I'm not going to be adding masts to the model, that detail will be left out.

You will also notice that the deck planking at the bow has a rectangular hole in it. This hole will have a bowsprit bitt installed later Building A Sailboat Model Name on. There is also a round opening in front of the windlass where the mast would go. Earlier when you framed the deck, there were two beams and two carlings very close together that formed a small square opening which is where this mast hole is located. The rectangular hole for the bowsprit bitt is just in front of the forward most deck beam.

This completes the details on the main deck. Our model is just about finished now. If you wanted you could add additional deck planking and purchase cannons from Model Expo to be installed on the deck.

I chose Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name not to do this because I wanted to show the framework of the deck and typically an Admiralty model such as this did not have cannons installed. The primary purpose for the Admiralty model was to show the Admiralty Board what the ship's framework would be like, so such details were left off and were often up to the individual captain of the ship to decide. Now we will turn our attention to the quarterdeck and its deck furniture. The quarterdeck has two hatches with grating covers that are made in the same manner as the main deck hatches.

The Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name first 3 photos show these hatches. There is also a large hatch in the center as shown in the photos. At the fore end of the deck is a structure called the bitts. This structure consists of two tall posts with a cross beam that has a special shape.

The 4th, 5th and 6th photo shows how the upper cross beam is made using a piece of. The posts can be made from the same stripwood but should be cut down to. The lower cross piece is also.

You can use the Miscellaneous Parts drawing to obtain measurements of these pieces. The Name Sailboat Model Building A A Building Model Name Sailboat Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name arched shaped upper cross beam is shaped by hand using a 22 Xacto. A bell hangs from the underside which can be purchased from Model Expo also.

As seen in the photo, two square holes are cut in the second plank on each side from the outside edge of the deck planking between the first beam and first ledge. You can start by drilling a small hole using a pin vise and a small drill bit. Then the hole can be enlarged using a 11 Xacto knife. The posts to the bitts fits int the hole being glued to the aft Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name side of the deck beam.

The lower cross timber has notches cut into it on each end so that it can be fitted to the two posts as seen in the photo. The posts also have corresponding notches for the cross timber to mate to. The posts also have a small hole drilled through them at their base. This hole is a simulation of a sheave that would have been installed in the posts for certain rigging lines to pass through, but making and installing such a small detail is extremely difficult.

Behind the bitts is the mast hole which needs to Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name be cut out from the planking. Drill a small hole to begin with and then enlarge it with a 11 Xacto. Now to finish off that middle hatch which is called a companionway. Your Miscellaneous Parts plans will show the size of each side. These parts are assembled as shown in the 9th photo and are fitted inside the hatch coaming in the middle of the deck.

Notice that the top is slightly slanted aft which is also shown on your plans. The companionway has some thin. These give the companionway some contrast.

Small hinges on the simulated doors are made by A Model Building Name Sailboat Name Sailboat A Model Building A Name Sailboat Building Model cutting small strips of black construction paper and gluing them with white glue. A top was made from a piece of.

The top is scored with a 11 Xacto to simulate two separate pieces and simulated hinges are made from black construction paper. The 10th and 11th photo shows the completed companionway. The next detail to make is the galley chimney. Ships had an oven on the lower deck. Although no below deck details were made for this model, you can still show this chimney on the quarterdeck. It is made from a solid piece of wood measuring.

Around the bottom, Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name a small hatch coaming like structure is made using. First 2 sides are added around the chimney. Then the other two sides are added. Once these four sides have been added, they are beveled slightly along the upper area. A top for the chimney is made from. The upper portion above the coaming is painted black. The chimney is glued into the square opening on the right side of the deck next to the companionway as seen in the 16th and 17th photo.

Ships had pumps that were used to pump water out of the bottom of the ship that might accumulate Building A Sailboat Model Name A Model Building Sailboat Name Sailboat Model Name A Building Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name from rough seas, leaks or rain. These were called elm tree pumps because they were usually made from elm trees due to the tree's hardness and longevity when exposed to water. The 15th through the 18th photos show how these pumps are made.

First cut the piece to length. After tapering, bevel each corner from top to bottom to form an octagonal shape as seen in the 19th photo. Drill a small hole in the top surface the wide end and then bevel it slightly as shown in the photos. Finally, cut a notch in the top edge of the beveled Building Name Sailboat Model A Name A Sailboat Building Model Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name A Name Sailboat Model Building end and add a tapered strip of.

Paint the handle black as seen in the photo. The eighteenth photo shows these installed on the flat wood surface of the pieces added earlier when the deck was framed.

Orient the handles on an angle on the forward side as shown in the photos. The last detail tol make in this step will be the binnacle. The binnacle was a box like structure that housed a compass and a small candle or lantern inside.

It was used to aid in knowing the direction the ship was headed in. A man would work the Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name tiller which was attached to the rudder to steer the ship on a certain compass heading. The binnacle is made in a similar fashion to the companionway using.

Use your Miscellaneous Parts plan to get the length and width of each piece. Construction is shown in the 19yh through the 20th photos. Notice how the bottom edge is cut at an angle. This is because the deck rises fore and aft. The angled bottom makes the binnacle stand straight when mounted to the deck.

Trim the edges with swiss pear as shown in the photos. Mount the binnacle behind the companionway as Name Sailboat Building A Model shown in the 21st photo and top it off with a roof made from.

The last photo shows the completed quarterdeck with all of its deck details. In the next and final step, all remaining details will be made and added to the ship thus completing your construction of a true plank on frame model ship made from scratch. Happy modeling! We're closing on on the finished model now! This is the last step in this Instructable. You will finish up the final details on the model in this step. The first part to be made will be the channels with Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name chainplates.

These structures were part of the ship's rigging. Heavy lines came down from the upper area of the masts to the channels.

Special blocks called deadeyes were seized to the end of these heavy ropes. Corresponding deadeyes were attached to the channels using metal strops. These stropped deadeyes were then attached to the side of the ship using chainplates. The two deadeyes were lashed together using the three holes in the deadeyes.

This will make more sense to you when you view the photos. Brass wire purchased at a craft store I believe 24 or 22 gauge was used Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name to make the strop. After the wire has been bent around the deadeye, a small loop is formed at the bottom, again being formed and bent using jeweler's needle nose pliers also found at most craft stores. The excess wire is cut off and the strop is soldered in the middle leaving the small loop at the bottom open and exposed.

Small jeweler's files are used to file away the excess solder. Finally, the deadeye and strop are painted black. Photos two through five show these steps. The chainplates are made from flat brass or copper strips. Photo six shows Building A Sailboat Model Name Sailboat Building Model A Name Name A Sailboat Model Building some flat copper wire purchased from Model Expo. A small hole is drilled in one end and the other end is bent over at an angle. Small jeweler's files were used to taper the bent end so that it would fit into the hole in the strop.

The end where the hole was drilled was rounded on the corners with a jeweler's file and small notches were filed on each side to make this part of the chainplate look more separated. That end was also bent slightly at an angle opposite to the upper end. Finally these were painted black. Photos Sailboat A Name Building ModelSailboat Building Model A Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name trong> 5 through 7 show the chainplates and some flat copper wire but brass wire may also be used, so long as it's flat otherwise you won't be able to drill the hole in the bottom end.

Now to attach everything to the ship. Your plans show the shape and location. The outside edges have small notches cut into them. A deadeye strop fits into each notch as shown in the 8th and 9th photos. A small strip of. Then the chainplate is hooked onto the strop eye. A small brass nail is used to secure the bottom end Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Name Sailboat Model Building A A Sailboat Model Building Name to the wale plank. These nails can be purchased from Model Expo as well.

Drill a small hole into the wale first, and then insert the nail into the hole using needle nose pliers. The fit should be snug, and a touch of super glue can be used to secure the nail into the hole. There are two channels on each side of the ship, one for each mast. Your Top View and Side View plans show their location and dimension. At the front of the ship is a special post called the bowsprit bitt. It is a rectangular post that is Building A Sailboat Model Name beveled at the top on all four sides.

A square mortise is cut into the upper end. This mortise was used so that the bowsprit tenon could be mated to secure the bowsprit in place. A bowsprit is a special kind of mast that sat on the stem and protruded out from the front of the ship.

First make the bowsprit bitt. Then cut the rectangular opening in the deck where it is inserted see the photo which shows it located just in front of the two forward hatches. Temporarily install the bitt into the hole you just cut. Then lay a Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name strip of scrap wood across the stem and mark where it intersects the bitt. Remove the bit, drill a starter hole through the bitt at the mark you made, then use a 11 Xacto to shape the hole into a square mortise.

Finally, glue the bitt back into the hole. In the 10th and 11th photo you can see the timberheads have been shaped. You will recall that when you added the cap rails, these were left sticking above the rail.

Shape them with a 11 Xacto by first beveling each edge at the top. In photo 12 you see 10 Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Model Building A Name Sailboat Building A Sailboat Model Name A Name Model Sailboat Building Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name swivel gun mounts. These were mounted on the side of the hull and had a small swivel cannon inserted into a hole in the top.

These small cannons could be tilted up and down. They can also be purchased from Model Expo. These mounts are made from. Your plans will show the length to make them. Bevel the bottom end on one side as shown in the 16th and 18th photos.

Drill a small hole in the top. Your Side View plans will show the location of each mount. You will have to cut the moldings so that the mounts will fit Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name Building A Sailboat Model Name flush against the upper hull planking. Photo 19 shows a cannon mounted. In photo 20 and 21 you see two more details added. This will also be shown on your Side View plans.

The hawse port was an opening that the anchor rope passed through. Drill a hole through the piece of wood as well as the hull planking after it is glued in place. Of course all of these parts go on both sides of the ship. The second detail is some additional curved and tapered planks that cross the upper hull planking between the wale plank and the upper molding.

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